Four Tines & a Napkin

an (abridged) ode to gourmandise and epicurean delights

Posts tagged Eric Ripert

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My Last Day: Le Bernardin's Pastry Chef Reflects on 8 Long Years - Michael Laiskonis - Health - The Atlantic

Tonight is my last service, only because Le Bernardin has for years been closed on the last day of the year. With the New Year’s Eve celebrations closing streets in and around Times Square, the restaurant is nearly impossible to get to. Midway through dinner, in between the busy seatings, we begin to prepare the kitchen for a rare two-day shutdown. It’s only now that all of the lasts begin to sink in: the last birthday cake I decorate, the last produce order I call in, the last time I print off and fill in the prep list for Walter and Jesus. There is still too much to distract me from feeling too sentimental about things. I came close to getting choked up an hour ago, when I noticed Eric, who left the city earlier for a well-deserved break after the season, had sent me a congratulatory text message, wishing me a happy service.

Filed under Michael Laiskonis Le Bernardin Eric Ripert dessert last service The Atlantic articles

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The Saveur 100, #65: Le Bernardin

"Eric Ripert—prepped in the Parisian kitchen of Joël Robuchon—took the helm, paying homage to Gilbert’s minimalist philosophy. In the years since, he has grown into mastery, creating his own distinct style, more global, bold, indulgent, yet never obscuring the fish. Sometimes I imagine them in conversation, confident, fun-loving Gilbert and earnest, ever-serious Eric, so opposite in personalities, yet both of the mind that nothing—no chef’s whim, no creative flourish—shall ever upstage the gifts of the sea.

…What matters is the fish, the impeccably cooked or uncooked fish. As it says on the menu: “Fish is the star of the plate,” not the chef One prickly gourmand I know dismisses Le Bernardin: “It’s not French anymore,” he complains. “Every dish is Asian.” And it’s true that many ingredients have a non-Gallic provenance: yuzu, miso, white balsamic, saffron fideos (the small Spanish noodles). Ripert blends brown butter into dashi broth. That takes bravado. But, for me, what matters is that it’s always about the fish, the impeccably cooked or uncooked fish. As it says on the menu in big letters on a page by itself: “Fish is the star of the plate,” not the chef. First Gilbert, then Eric: Chefs of such mastery and imagination can afford to be modest.” —Gael Greene, “The Saveur 100” from Saveur magazine


Filed under Le Bernardin Eric Ripert Gael Greene Saveur Saveur 100